The Colonial Estate
Brand Profile
The Colonial Estate produces a range of wines from its base in the Barossa Valley in South Australia, near to Adelaide.
The main winery is in the style of the early-settler period. Stone facing and a galvanised roof reflect local tradition but mask a modern, temperature-controlled winery that has been completely equipped from France. Wooden vats, triage tables, and conveyors as opposed to stainless steel vats and must pumps underline the difference in approach.
The winemakers are Jonathan Maltus, Neil Whyte, Cyril Beziat (from Château Teyssier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru) and Scott Hazeldine, with Gilles Pauquet consulting – as he does for Châteaux Cheval Blanc, Canon, Figeac, and Teyssier. The vineyards are managed by Peter Smith.
A range of premium wines, – The Colonial Estate – come in a number of different grape varieties. Old-vine provenance manifests itself in the Émigré and the single vineyard wine, Exile.
WINE PORTFOLIO
2003 Colonial Estate, L’ Expatrie Semillon, Barossa Valley
Light yellow robe with vibrant pale golden hues. Nose exhibits classic Semillon characters with a fresh, fruity lift, and a hint of honeyed oak. Crisp and medium-bodied on the palate. The wine has a lingering finish.
2003 Colonial Estate, L’ Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley
Deep purple colour with a slightly bluish hue. Fresh, spicy blackcurrants with a touch of minty liquorice contribute to this classic cabernet nose. Firm, fruity tannins provide backbone, which is well fleshed out and long.
2003 Colonial Estate, L’ Explorateur Shiraz
Dense plum/crimson colour. Sweet berry fruit with a lovely nutty, toasty uplift of oak on the nose. Good fruit with fat, chewy tannins and a lingering, flavoursome finish.
2002 Emigre, Barossa
Deep grenadine with dark ruby hues. Lovely warm intense fruit reminiscent of brambles and ripe raspberries, mingling with minty chocolate and oaky vanilla aromas. Soft cashmere tannins melt in the mouth. Rich, fruity and a long, lingering finish.
2002 Exile, Barossa
A big, inky wine with a deep dark cherry robe. Intense blackcurrant, black cherry and toasty oak. Hint of woodsmoke, vanilla and exotic spices. Powerful structure, integrating silky tannins, chocolatey oak and fresh black berry fruit flavours. Well-layered tannins lead to an incredibly long, persistent finish.
Wine Profile
L’EXPATRIE SEMILLON, BAROSSA VALLEY
PERSONNEL
Winemaker Jonathan Maltus
Œnologue Neil Whyte
Consulting Œnologue Gilles Pauquet
Resident Director Peter Smith
Winery Manager Scott Hazeldine
Vineyard Manager Wayne Linke
Owners The Colonial Wine Company Pty Ltd
DESCRIPTION
The old-vine Semillon from Australia is legendary – bright yellow and generous, made from vines planted by Silesian immigrants at the beginning of the last century before any other variety became fashionable. The grapes are handpicked from vineyards in the Eden and Barossa Valleys, into shallow trays and soft pressed as whole bunches to encapture the fruit.
GRAPE VARIETIES
Semillon 92%
Riesling 08%
VITICULTURE
The Semillon grapes are selected from blocks of old vines in the Barossa Ranges and Eden Valleys. The cool climate of the Eden Valley supplies the grapes for the small percentage of Riesling (Jonathan Maltus’ signature for his Australian white wines). All grapes are hand-picked into shallow trays before transport to the winery.
VINIFICATION
On arrival at the winery, the trays are emptied onto a sorting table where any unripe or damaged fruit is removed, before transfer by conveyor to an inert membrane press. Following whole bunch pressing, the juice is immediately chilled to 6°C where it remains for several days before the sediment is filtered out, and fermentation is started using selected aromatic Champagne yeast. Carbon dioxide gas protection throughout, plus low temperature fermentation, maximise freshness and fruitiness, and connoisseurs may detect a hint of oak. Early bottling ensures the conservation of this wine’s crispness.
PRODUCTION
An annual production of 1,000 cases of L’expatrié Semillon. The first vintage of the wine was made in 2003.
PRESENTATION
Bottle: ACI Premium Burgundy Antique Green. Seal: Amorim Cork No 1. Capsule: Tin – Black with Gold top.
WINEMAKER’S TASTING NOTES
2003 – Light yellow robe with vibrant pale golden hues. Nose exhibits classic Semillon characters with a fresh, fruity lift, and a hint of honeyed oak. Crisp and medium-bodied on the palate. The addition of the Riesling to Semillon that has not received artificial acidification provides precision, definition and lift. The wine has a lingering finish.
Wine Profile
L’ETRANGER CABERNET SAUVIGNON, BAROSSA VALLEY
PERSONNEL
Winemaker Jonathan Maltus
Œnologue Neil Whyte
Consulting Œnologue Gilles Pauquet
Resident Director Peter Smith
Winery Manager Scott Hazeldine
Vineyard Manager Wayne Linke
Owners The Colonial Wine Company Pty Ltd
DESCRIPTION
The prime terroir that makes up the ‘Northern Arc’ of the Barossa Valley lends itself to the production of Cabernet Sauvignon. Handpicked grapes are given the full triage treatment and rotation pumped during fermentation before being aged in French oak. Inky black, deep flavoured wine.
GRAPE VARIETIES
Cabernet Sauvignon 88%
Shiraz 12%
VITICULTURE
Selected blocks of single-wire trellis vines from Marananga and Stockwell in the Barossa Valley were blended for this wine. Viticultural techniques included minimal irrigation, low cropping and canopy management to maximise fruit maturation under optimum conditions. When judged flavour-ripe the grapes were handpicked into shallow trays.
VINIFICATION
Each block is vinified separately in order to optimise its individual characteristics. On arrival at the winery the grapes are sorted pre- and post-destemming (double triage) and crushed on entry into the vats. After a short pre-fermentation maceration period in which colour and fresh fruit aromas are extracted, the fermentation is started. The wine is rotation pumped during primary fermentation and also during the maceration period, which may be up to 3 weeks, after which the wine is run-off into French barrels.
AGEING
12 months on average in a blend of new, one and two year old French oak casks.
PRODUCTION
An annual production of 1,000 cases of L’étranger Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vintage of the wine was made in 2003.
PRESENTATION
Bottle: ACI Premium Claret Antique Green. Seal: Amorim Cork No 1. Capsule: Tin - Black with Electric blue top.
WINEMAKER’S TASTING NOTES
2003 – Deep purple colour with a slightly bluish hue. Fresh, spicy blackcurrants with a touch of minty liquorice contribute to this classic cabernet nose. Firm, fruity tannins provide backbone, which is well fleshed out and long.
Wine Profile
L’EXPLORATEUR SHIRAZ, BAROSSA VALLEY
PERSONNEL
Winemaker Jonathan Maltus
Œnologue Neil Whyte
Consulting Œnologue Gilles Pauquet
Resident Director Peter Smith
Winery Manager Scott Hazeldine
Vineyard Manager Wayne Linke
Owners The Colonial Wine Company Pty Ltd
DESCRIPTION
Classic ripe Shiraz that is handpicked from old Shiraz Vines based in the north of the Barossa Valley. The grapes are double-sorted – by bunch and then by grape -- on arrival at the winery and, after fermentation, aged in French oak for a year. Purple in colour with a round, enveloping taste.
GRAPE VARIETIES
Shiraz 100%
VITICULTURE
Grapes are sourced from blocks of old vines situated around the North of the Barossa Valley: Marananga, Ebenezer, Light Pass, Greenock, Angaston and Stockwell. Viticultural practises include minimal irrigation, low cropping and canopy management to maximise fruit maturation under optimum conditions. When judged flavour-ripe the grapes are handpicked into shallow trays.
VINIFICATION
Each block is vinified separately in order to optimise its individual characteristics. On arrival at the winery the grapes are sorted pre- and post-destemming (double triage) and crushed on entry into the vats. After a short pre-fermentation maceration period in which colour and fresh fruit aromas are extracted, the fermentation is started. The wine is rotation pumped during primary fermentation and also during the maceration period, which may be up to 3 weeks, after which the wine is run-off into French barrels.
AGEING
12 months on average in a blend of new, one and two year old French oak casks. After tasting, the final blend is determined a month or so before bottling.
PRODUCTION
An annual production of 4,500 cases of L’explorateur Shiraz. The first vintage of the wine was made in 2003.
PRESENTATION
Bottle: ACI Premium Claret Antique Green. Seal: Amorim Cork No 1. Capsule: Tin – Black with Purple top.
WINEMAKER’S TASTING NOTES
2003 – Dense plum/crimson colour. Sweet berry fruit with a lovely nutty, toasty uplift of oak on the nose. Good fruit with fat, chewy tannins and a lingering, flavoursome finish.
Wine Profile
Émigré, Barossa Valley
PERSONNEL
Winemaker Jonathan Maltus
Œnologue Neil Whyte
Consulting Œnologue Gilles Pauquet
Resident Director Peter Smith
Winery Manager Scott Hazeldine
Vineyard Manager Wayne Linke
Owners The Colonial Wine Company Pty Ltd
GRAPE VARIETIES
Shiraz 30%
Grenache 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon 20%
Mourvèdre 15%
Carignan 03%
Muscadelle 02%
VITICULTURE
A palate of the Barossa Valley ranging from the Barossa Ranges of Greenock, through the Northern Arc of the Barossa Valley to the cool climate of the Eden Valley. These blocks are cropped at a maximum of one tonne per acre. Spur-pruning, single-wire trellising and two runs of green harvesting ensure the cropping level, and a light leaf plucking allows the grapes to ripen under optimum conditions. When judged flavour-ripe the grapes are handpicked into shallow trays before transfer to the winery.
VINIFICATION
The grapes are transferred without pumping, via a system of sorting tables and conveyor belts, to the crusher on top of the vat, thus allowing the removal of all damaged or sunburnt grapes and other foreign material (leaves, etc.) while at the same time respecting the quality of the fruit. A short, low temperature maceration period allows the extraction of colour and fresh fruit aromas, then the primary fermentation commences. Blocks are vinified separately in small oak vats, equipped with temperature control. Extraction techniques during and after primary fermentation include rotation pumping and punch-downs; the post-fermentation maceration period may be up to four weeks depending on tasting and the wine is run off into new French oak barrels for the malo-lactic fermentation.
AGEING
The wine is aged for 18-20 months in new French oak, being racked when necessary in the traditional French manner. Blending and fining with egg albumin occurs about a month before bottling. Final blending is conducted in Saint-Emilion, France.
PRODUCTION
An annual production of 2,000 cases of Émigré. The first vintage of the wine was made in 2002.
PRESENTATION
Bottle: Heavy Bordeaux bottles with Émigré embossed on their base. Seal: Amorim Extra Fleur.
Capsule: Tin – “Palmer” Red. They are packed in flat wooden cases of twelve.
WINEMAKER’S TASTING NOTES
2003 – Deep grenadine with dark ruby hues. Lovely warm intense fruit reminiscent of brambles and ripe raspberries, mingling with minty chocolate and oaky vanilla aromas. Soft cashmere tannins melt in the mouth. Rich, fruity and a long, lingering finish.
Wine Profile
EXILE, BAROSSA VALLEY
PERSONNEL
Winemaker Jonathan Maltus
Œnologue Neil Whyte
Consulting Œnologue Gilles Pauquet
Resident Director Peter Smith
Winery Manager Scott Hazeldine
Vineyard Manager Wayne Linke
Owners The Colonial Wine Company Pty Ltd
GRAPE VARIETIES
Shiraz 75%
Mourvèdre 20%
Grenache 05%
VITICULTURE
The single vineyard, which provides the grapes for Exile, is owned by The Colonial Wine Company and is situated in the centre of Nuriootpa. This block, that has been dry grown since the late 1800s, is cropped at a maximum of one tonne per acre. Spur-pruning, single-wire trellising and two runs of green harvesting ensure the cropping level, and a light leaf plucking allows the grapes to ripen under optimum conditions. When judged flavour-ripe the grapes are handpicked into shallow trays before transfer to the winery.
VINIFICATION
The grapes are transferred without pumping, via a system of sorting tables and conveyor belts, to the crusher on top of the vat, thus allowing the removal of all damaged or sunburnt grapes and other foreign material (leaves, etc.) while at the same time respecting the quality of the fruit. A short, low temperature maceration period allows the extraction of colour and fresh fruit aromas, then the primary fermentation commences. Blocks are vinified separately in small oak vats, equipped with temperature control. Extraction techniques during and after primary fermentation include rotation pumping and punch-downs; the post-fermentation maceration period may be up to four weeks depending on tasting and the wine is run off into new French oak barrels for the malo-lactic fermentation.
AGEING
The wine is aged for 18-20 months in new French oak, being racked when necessary in the traditional French manner. Blending and fining with egg albumin occurs about a month before bottling. Final blending is conducted in Saint-Emilion, France.
PRODUCTION
An annual production of 1,000 cases of Exile. The first vintage of the wine was made in 2002.
PRESENTATION
Bottle: Heavy Bordeaux bottles with Exile embossed on their base. Seal: Amorim Extra Fleur.
Capsule: Tin – “Margaux” Red. They are packed in flat wooden cases of six.
WINEMAKER’S TASTING NOTES
2003 – A big, inky wine with a deep dark cherry robe. Intense blackcurrant, black cherry and toasty oak. Hint of woodsmoke, vanilla and exotic spices. Powerful structure, integrating silky tannins, chocolatey oak and fresh black berry fruit flavours. Well-layered tannins lead to an incredibly long, persistent finish.
Reviews & Awards
L'Expatrie Semillion
2003 L'Expatrié, Barossa Semillon, 87 points
"A fresh, crisp, medium-bodied 2003 Semillon Expatrie. Notes of citrus (particularly grapefruit) and sealing wax are found in this refreshing, light-bodied white that is meant to be consumed in its exuberant youth."
- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
Reviews & Awards
L'Etranger Cabernet
2003 L'Etranger, Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 90 points
"Sexy, opulent 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon l'Etranger - its dense purple color is followed by classic aromas of blackcurrant jam intertwined with smoke, damp earth, spice box, and toasty oak. This rich, full-bodied, impressive Cabernet displays a seamless integration of acidity, alcohol, wood, and tannin. An Australian version of a French Pauillac. It should be consumed over the next 10-15 years."
- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
Reviews & Awards
2003 Barossa Valley l'explorateur Shiraz
2003 L'Explorateur, Barossa Valley Shiraz, 91 points
"Exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with a big, rich bouquet of melted licorice, blackberry liqueur, pepper and a hint of road tar. Ripe, full-bodied, supple-textured, and long, it should drink well for 5-10 years."
- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
This shiraz might as well be labeled as Port, it's so heady and sweet with super-ripe berry flavor. The wine is broad, powerful, and delicious, a meal in itself -- or with cheese (though perhaps better with a truffled pecorino than a creamy Explorateur). Commonwealth Wine and Spirits, Mansfield, MA.
- Wine Enthusiast, October 2004
"Lovely leathery feel, before a massive blast of fruit and tannins which kick in very late and then stay with you to the end, leaving a chewy, soft memory. A tremendous, controlled wine."
- Decanter, September 2004.
Reviews & Awards
ÉmigrÉ, Barossa Valley
2002 Emigré, Barossa Valley, 95 points
"The sumptuous 2002 Emigré is a proprietary blend of old vine Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its inky/purple color is accompanied by aromas and flavors of lead pencil shavings, blackberries, blueberries, cassis, and licorice. Although it has a fabulous texture as well as a massive palate, it is neither over the top nor hot (even though it boasts 15.5% natural alcohol). The tannin is melted, but high. While this 2002 is impossible to resist at present, it should age well for 10-12 years, possibly longer."
- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
We’ve had a couple of reviews on Exile and Émigré recently, which you should be aware of.
I’m pleased to say that Émigré came second in the Red Wine category of Stephen Tanzer’s Australian annual review after Henschke Hill of Grace, and scored higher than Penfold’s Grange, Torbreck’s RunRig, Veritas’ Harnish and Clarendon Hill’s wines, to name a few. We would have been happier, obviously, coming first – but, there again, we were putting our 2002 up against their 1998 vintage (a wine featured in Decanter this month as one of world’s top 100 wines of all time)!
Unusually he put Émigré over Exile – which is not in line with other tasters’ views. I think his leader article gives us the reason as to why. Exile is about power and elegance and Émigré perhaps the reverse. His “rant”, as he called it, is against concentration, and Exile has that. On the other hand, René Gabriel takes the view, we believe, that others will also.
2002 The Colonial Estate Emigre Barossa Valley 94
($100; a blend of shiraz, grenache, cabernet sauvignon, mourvedre, carignan and muscadelle) Medium ruby. Cassis, raspberry, violet, pepper and eucalyptus on the nose. Dense, spicy and vibrant, with superconcentrated, sharply delineated flavors of blackberry, chocolate, pepper and spices. A far cry from the literally dozens of dead fruit shirazes I tasted in recent weeks from Australia. This has superb backbone and lift, and a bright, very long finish.
Reviews & Awards
Exile, Barossa Valley
2002 Exile, Barossa Valley, 98 points
"Produced from a dry-farmed, single vineyard of old vine Shiraz (some of which are 120 years old), the stunning, inky/purple-tinged 2002 Shiraz Exile was aged in 100% new French oak. A sweet nose of black fruits, flowers, melted licorice, and expresso roast precedes a wine of amazing concentration, compelling intensity, and a tremendous finish of more than 60 seconds. Although expensive, readers must take into consideration the age of the vines as well as the limited production. This exquisite Shiraz is approachable, but promises to hit its peak in 3-5 years, and last for two decades."
- Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
We’ve had a couple of reviews on Exile and Émigré recently, which you should be aware of.
I’m pleased to say that Émigré came second in the Red Wine category of Stephen Tanzer’s Australian annual review after Henschke Hill of Grace, and scored higher than Penfold’s Grange, Torbreck’s RunRig, Veritas’ Harnish and Clarendon Hill’s wines, to name a few. We would have been happier, obviously, coming first – but, there again, we were putting our 2002 up against their 1998 vintage (a wine featured in Decanter this month as one of world’s top 100 wines of all time)!
Unusually he put Émigré over Exile – which is not in line with other tasters’ views. I think his leader article gives us the reason as to why. Exile is about power and elegance and Émigré perhaps the reverse. His “rant”, as he called it, is against concentration, and Exile has that. On the other hand, René Gabriel takes the view, we believe, that others will also.
2002 The Colonial Estate Exile Barossa Valley 90
($200; a blend of 75% shiraz, 20% mourvedre and 5% Grenache); like the Émigré, this is 15.5% alcohol and comes from a crop level of barely a ton an acre). Bright medium ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, chocolate, mocha and woodsmoke. Thick, superconcentrated and dense; fatter than the Émigré but less vibrant, with lower-toned, somewhat saline flavors of berries, chocolate, and nut skin. Finishes thick, nutty and very long, with building tannins. A more massive wine than Émigré, but I preferred the Émigré. This is the first release for both of these wines, which are made using French methods, and French oak, by Jonathan Maltus (owner of Teyssier, Laforge and Le Dôme) and his team from Saint Emilion. (Commonwealth Wine & Spirits, Mansfield, MA).