Colonial Estate
Robert Parkers Scores the Colonial Estate
From Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Australian Issue, WA155, Oct. 2004.
"These impressive Barossa offerings are made by Jonathan Maltus, who lives at Château Teyssier in Saint-Emilion. He is known for his trio of Saint-Emilions (Teyssier, Laforge, and the garagiste offering, Le Dôme) ... Kudos to proprietor Jonathan Maltus for his work in the Barossa."
2002 Exile, Barossa Valley, 98 points
"Produced from a dry-farmed, single vineyard of old vine Shiraz (some of which are 120 years old), the stunning, inky/purple-tinged 2002 Shiraz Exile was aged in 100% new French oak. A sweet nose of black fruits, flowers, melted licorice, and expresso roast precedes a wine of amazing concentration, compelling intensity, and a tremendous finish of more than 60 seconds. Although expensive, readers must take into consideration the age of the vines as well as the limited production. This exquisite Shiraz is approachable, but promises to hit its peak in 3-5 years, and last for two decades."
2002 Emigré, Barossa Valley, 95 points
"The sumptuous 2002 Emigré is a proprietary blend of old vine Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its inky/purple color is accompanied by aromas and flavors of lead pencil shavings, blackberries, blueberries, cassis, and licorice. Although it has a fabulous texture as well as a massive palate, it is neither over the top nor hot (even though it boasts 15.5% natural alcohol). The tannin is melted, but high. While this 2002 is impossible to resist at present, it should age well for 10-12 years, possibly longer."
2003 L'Explorateur, Barossa Valley Shiraz, 91 points
"Exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with a big, rich bouquet of melted licorice, blackberry liqueur, pepper and a hint of road tar. Ripe, full-bodied, supple-textured, and long, it should drink well for 5-10 years."
2003 L'Etranger, Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 90 points
"Sexy, opulent 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon l'Etranger - its dense purple color is followed by classic aromas of blackcurrant jam intertwined with smoke, damp earth, spice box, and toasty oak. This rich, full-bodied, impressive Cabernet displays a seamless integration of acidity, alcohol, wood, and tannin. An Australian version of a French Pauillac. It should be consumed over the next 10-15 years."
2003 L'Expatrié, Barossa Semillon, 87 points
"A fresh, crisp, medium-bodied 2003 Semillon Expatrie. Notes of citrus (particularly grapefruit) and sealing wax are found in this refreshing, light-bodied white that is meant to be consumed in its exuberant youth."
Stephen tanzer's australian annual review
From Australian Annual Review
We’ve had a couple of reviews on Exile and Émigré recently, which you should be aware of.
I’m pleased to say that Émigré came second in the Red Wine category of Stephen Tanzer’s Australian annual review after Henschke Hill of Grace, and scored higher than Penfold’s Grange, Torbreck’s RunRig, Veritas’ Harnish and Clarendon Hill’s wines, to name a few. We would have been happier, obviously, coming first – but, there again, we were putting our 2002 up against their 1998 vintage (a wine featured in Decanter this month as one of world’s top 100 wines of all time)!
Unusually he put Émigré over Exile – which is not in line with other tasters’ views. I think his leader article gives us the reason as to why. Exile is about power and elegance and Émigré perhaps the reverse. His “rant”, as he called it, is against concentration, and Exile has that. On the other hand, René Gabriel takes the view, we believe, that others will also.
In addition to these reviews the full Colonial range will be reviewed this year by Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator. We are also given to understand that Decanter are to do a feature article on us and our wines next year.
2002 The Colonial Estate Emigre Barossa Valley, 94 points
($100; a blend of shiraz, grenache, cabernet sauvignon, mourvedre, carignan and muscadelle) Medium ruby. Cassis, raspberry, violet, pepper and eucalyptus on the nose. Dense, spicy and vibrant, with superconcentrated, sharply delineated flavors of blackberry, chocolate, pepper and spices. A far cry from the literally dozens of dead fruit shirazes I tasted in recent weeks from Australia. This has superb backbone and lift, and a bright, very long finish.
2002 The Colonial Estate Exile Barossa Valley 90 points
($200; a blend of 75% shiraz, 20% mourvedre and 5% Grenache); like the Émigré, this is 15.5% alcohol and comes from a crop level of barely a ton an acre). Bright medium ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, chocolate, mocha and woodsmoke. Thick, superconcentrated and dense; fatter than the Émigré but less vibrant, with lower-toned, somewhat saline flavors of berries, chocolate, and nut skin. Finishes thick, nutty and very long, with building tannins. A more massive wine than Émigré, but I preferred the Émigré. This is the first release for both of these wines, which are made using French methods, and French oak, by Jonathan Maltus (owner of Teyssier, Laforge and Le Dôme) and his team from Saint Emilion. (Wine Enthusiast, October 2004).
2003 L’Explorateur Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 89 points
This shiraz might as well be labeled as Port, it's so heady and sweet with super-ripe berry flavor. The wine is broad, powerful, and delicious, a meal in itself -- or with cheese (though perhaps better with a truffled pecorino than a creamy Explorateur). Commonwealth Wine and Spirits, Mansfield, MA.
2003 L’Explorateur Shiraz, Barossa Valley, ***** (5 stars)
"Lovely leathery feel, before a massive blast of fruit and tannins which kick in very late and then stay with you to the end, leaving a chewy, soft memory. A tremendous, controlled wine." (Decanter, September 2004).